Birding the Brahmaputra in Honest Light

Assam is justly famous among birders, but river birding is a different craft from forest trails. Light is harsh at noon. Sandbars move. Winter and monsoon are different countries.

Our birding expeditions are not sold on a promised list. We talk habitat — banks, wetlands, seasonal islands — and we keep voices down when a raptor is working the channel. Bring binoculars. Leave the need to ‘complete Assam’ at the hotel.